Out of Humous: Uruguay

Uruguay - definitely a great experience. The night ferry departed from the elegant restaurant district of Puerto Madera and was followed by a bus connection to Montevideo, in which about half the Uruguayans live. By my count that means about 2 million Mate kits. I would bet that if you checked at random you would find people here are more likely to carry their Mate kit then their ID.

Mate is a tea popular in Argentina and Uruguay. The basic accessories include a thermos (hugged close to the body with the left arm) and a leather-covered metal cup from which you slowly drink the tea with a metal straw. Those who can come up with a better use for their hands spoil themselves with a complementary accessory - a hard leather container for the above elements.

Argentineans affectionately call Uruguay "La Provincia", the province. These two countries are probably among the only neighbors on this continent who aren't nursing grudges.

A short walk in the old city reveals an eclectic mix of architectural styles. Surprisingly, Bauhaus (see Tel Aviv - the white city) is represented here, along with neo-classic and other nice combinations. I enjoyed it. At some point I forced myself to stop shooting pictures - no easy task.

I got to the old and well preserved Post Office headquarters and asked if I could take some pictures. Shortly afterwards a guy approached me and asked whether I would be interested in a comprehensive tour of the building. As he led me to the PR office, he told me he had friends in Ein Hashlosha and Carmiel.

The Uruguayans I met appeared to be pleasant and good tempered. They say one can recognize a Portenio (a nickname for people from Buenos Aires) because as a pedestrian he declines his right of way in fear and disbelief. Having been in Buenos Aires, I can tell you that's no joke.

In the old city, bars, coffee shops and restaurants offer something for everyone. At night, lively bars, clubs and dance halls are packed with young people, who, like their Argentinean neighbors from across the river, like to start the night at about 2 a.m.

It was an international delegation that left the hostel to make the scene: Two American college girls (exchange students), an English athlete on vacation, a young German teacher who had had enough of Germany, a Brazilian football tourist and myself.

Our friend from Brazil treated us all to a round of tequilas to celebrate his team's victory over Uruguay, its first victory there in 33 years.

The Rambla is the boulevard that goes along the Montevideo river shore. Comparing it to our Jordan "river" is like comparing a dinosaur to a bug.

The last stop on my trip was to be the historic football stadium where the first would cup final took place. I could hear the crowd as I approached. It sounded like the roar of the sea. As I got even closer it started to sound like an airplane.

Since the game had already started I easily negotiated with the ticket man outside the stadium and soon enough found myself watching the best team in the world.

In the company of cheering Uruguayan fans I got carried away. It was nice to see so many women and children in the crowd, cheering, singing and shouting. No feeling of insecurity. When the game ended everyone left in a quiet and orderly fashion. I once listened, with some disbelief, to someone arguing that football is a cultural activity. By the least I learned it could be civilized.

A lovely Asado with red wine and friends at an open grill restaurant in the roofed market of the old city was a great way to finish my visit to Montevideo; and a very tasty one. 

The colonial old city of the Colonia, from which I was to return to Buenos Aires, is an aesthetic reminder of Portugal's colonial past. With the appeal of a Greek island and a graceful aging fashion, it was a lovely way to say goodbye.

I was very content with my Uruguayan experience.