Out of Humous: Cordoba

They say it's a party city, but I came to Cordoba during the week and soon found the Aldea Hostel, which was recommended to me. The Mezuza on the door left no doubt as to the denomination of the owners.
 
I spent about half a day in the city and wasn't overwhelmed, so I went out to see some countryside. After a two-hour bus ride, I was dropped of on the side of the road. In the middle of nowhere. There wasn't so much as a signpost. With low vegetation all around me, I crossed the road and started walking - hopefully toward the park entrance.

I eventually made it, and as luck would have it I ran into an Israeli couple. Small world. I passed on in Hebrew the information on the park I had just received in Spanish, refilled my water bottle and hit the road.
 
I ran into the couple a few times during the first hour or so, but soon after took a different path and was all by myself. I traversed hills, canyons and a mountain to reach the furthest condor watch. Seeing condors in the wild has been a long-time dream of mine. I've been fascinated by condors ever since I saw the TV series The Mysterious Cities of Gold. The time had finally come.
 
All by myself, overlooking a vast green valley, I read with some anticipation the sign instructing hikers on how to behave should they come across a puma. The whole length and breadth of the canyon the only sound to be heard were the rubbing sound of my clothes and backpack. When I sat down for a rest, the weeds blowing in the wind made a sound as loud as I could take.
 
Alone I stood at the southern balcony and watched the magnificent condors ride the thermals, rising from the depths of the canyon below to the bright blue sky. My quest was finally fulfilled and it was worth all the effort. Resting after the initial excitement I shared my modest lunch with a hungry, jumpy bird. Robinson Crusoe for a few hours.
 
Back at the "bus station," I sat and geared up to the change from sweat to freezing cold. A farmer passed by on his mule so I asked him if I was waiting at the right point. I wasn't, and he wanted to make sure I knew how to clearly indicate to the bus that I wanted it to stop. I was ready for that, with a flashlight and spare batteries.
 
When I got back, I happened to find myself talking to the hostel-owner's father. He told me the incredible story of B and the rescue of 15 Jewish youngsters.
 
As the son of the head of the Jewish community in Cordoba, he knew as a child a young Jewish immigrant from the Soviet Union, B. B was a lovable and charismatic person with a gift - people loved him. One time they saw him driving the Argentinean national football team in the world final cup. On another occasion they met him in Israel. He was a volunteer on a kibbutz.
 
One night, out of the blue, while the storyteller was still a teenager, B showed up at the doorstep. B was very fond of my friend, but did not stay for long.
 
Years later, when my friend traveled to Italy with friends, his father told him, "go visit B." He did. B greeted him warmly. He hosted them, four young, broke travelers, and treated them to a private room in an expensive restaurant. He seemed to be well off. That has its interesting story behind it as well, but my friend asked about that night when B mysteriously showed up in their home.
 
In those days, Argentina was ruled by a military dictatorship. Cordoba produced a lot of opposition, much of it from the left-wing circles. The combination being a leftist Cordobese and a Jew was not ideal for survival. Many young people, relatively many students and Jews, disappeared. Taken and never seen again. Their relatives still demonstrate and demand the Argentinean government give a full account of the destiny of their loved ones.
 
About 15 Jewish youngsters were held at the time by the authorities in Cordoba. The head of the community knew that they had not been executed yet, and tried to negotiate their release. Fearless, he blatantly told the chief that bringing those teenagers to their death for practically nothing was pure anti-Semitism, and that he, the chief, was anti-Semitic. The chief, insulted, rejected and accusation and said he even had Jewish friends.

"And who might those be?" asked the head of the community.

"It is B," answered the chief, who then began describing their friendship.

"Well," said the head of the Jewish community, "If your friend B gave you his personal guarantee those kids would leave the country and never return, would you let them go?"

"It's been years since I spoke to B," replied the reserved chief of the police, "but yes, if he vouched for them personally I would let them leave with him, though to the best of my knowledge he's been living in Europe for years."

When B got the call he showed up. Crossed the ocean without even asking why. He came and got those kids to safety; turned them from an item on the missing list to living people.