Jews lost and found, in India

Dotted across villages on the slopes of mountains that make up the lower Himalayan ranges in northeast India, thousands of Indians are adopting and practicing Jewish traditions in the hope of one day officially converting to Judaism and immigrating to Israel. In the states of Mizoram, Assam, Manipur and Nagaland along the Burmese border, these Jews-in-waiting form a community that has come to be known as the Bnei Menashe - alleged descendants of the lost tribe of Manasseh that was exiled along with nine other Israelite tribes from Samaria when it was conquered by the Assyrians in 722 BCE.

Some 2,700 years later, the descendants of the tribe of Manasseh spend their weekends in dozens of synagogues, community centers and ritual baths in this remote region, thousands of miles away from present-day Samaria. Many of them pray three times a day, and there are children among them who can recite psalms and other prayers by heart.

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The Bnei Menashe could benefit from some secular influence

AIZAWL, Mizoram - The northern approach to the Aizawl, the capital of Mizoram state, is deeply deceptive. Driving in from the north just after sunset, we're hit by what seems like a city with no electricity - none of the houses have lights on and there are no street lamps. With no life on the streets, it feels like we're headed into a dark, doomed city, a city under lockdown where even the lights inside your home is off lest you be found out.

When it's dark in a city and the lights in the homes are out, you think people don't live there. Even Silchar, with its pandemonium and filth, still had a sense of life, light and sound.

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Coloring the Bnei Menashe in orange?

KOLASIB, AND SHIFIR, Mizoram - We drive north to south through the Chin mountains into Mizoram. We're climbing along a ridge road which naturally winds from left to right in wide arcs, so every few minutes we can see the view from the right side of the mountain into the valleys below, and then the same from the left side. Even this far up the terrain looks tropical - lush jungles, this is because of the monsoons which bring over 2,000mm of rain annually [Israel has something like 300mm]. We're headed into Kolasib district, northern sector of Mizoram. And we're headed to Aizwol, the largest city in the state. Mizoram is roughly the size of Israel: 21,000 km squared in length, and it has small pockets of confused Jews. That's where the comparison ends.

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Benny the editor

CHURACHANDAPUR, Manipur - This dusty, smoky and dark town is much smaller and quieter than Imphal, the capital of the North Eastern Indian state of Manipur, but it has a jewel in its crown  - a colorful monthly magazine called Cholla, Hindi for 'get a move on' [identical to the Arab 'yalla']. The magazine is bilingual - English and Hindi, and features stories and informative articles about life in Manipur and the region, news about the Kuki tribal people, international news, sports, entertainment and a personals section called Heart To Heart [with a logo of cupid's arrow through a heart]. It also features stories and news about the Bnei Menashe communities in Manipur, especially when someone is given permission to make aliyah. And it's all run single-handedly by a Bnei Menashe Judaism-practicing Kuki called Bennny Khongsai.

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Danger and beauty

IMPHAL, Manipur - We leave Churachandupur and head towards the airport for our flight to Assam province, due west. We're not going to spend any real time in Assam or meet any of the Bnei Menashe there, but the road we were going to take to Mizoram for the next leg of our journey has been closed by the authorities, so we have to fly to Assam and then drive to Mizoram through a mountain range. The whole North East region is seeing sporadic violence between assorted militants and the security forces, who are on high alert everywhere. Leave it to Israelis to trek their way through a war zone. Last night two drivers from the Manipur irrigation and flood control department were found dead on the outskirts of Imphal.

'We are the descendants of Menashe, we are Jewish; we need to get to Israel, the land of our forefathers, immediately. Help us.'

CHURACHANDAPUR, Manipur - Friday morning we get up at 05:30! We leave Imphal with a tfilat haderech [prayer for the traveler] and a parasha about the life of Sarah, Abraham's wife. Amen. Yishar Koach. I didn't know that the first piece of real-estate the Jews bought in Canaan was a piece of land that Abraham bought so that he could bury Sarah. The first piece of land in Eretz Israel was a grave.

As we head out of Imphal we drive past an army base. On the base's entrance is a large sign: Prove your identity. I love the English here. The group is getting more disciplined with every passing day [I'm grudgingly becoming more disciplined too]. We are told to get up at 05:30, so we're up at 05:30. Shacharit [morning prayer] is at 06:00 [I do yoga]. By 6:30 the bags need to be packed and outside our hotel room doors. Breakfast is between 6:30 and 7:30, and in this time we also need to make sandwiches for lunch. For breakfast we have omelettes, salad, tuna, cereal and banana shake. This group is so disciplined that we're even shaving time off - everyone is ready to go before 07:30, and Mosh is happy.

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A 'Jewish' ghetto in a Christian village

KANGPOPKI, Manipur - We visit the Beit Shalom Synagogue set up by the Shavei Israel organization at the Bnei Menashe compound in Kangpopki. As our bus pulls up to the top of the street dozens of kippa-wearing Bnei Menashe come out to greet us. Our group gets off the bus and a big celebration starts on the street, as we all greet each other. They are waving small Israeli flags, each one of them extends both hands to us and shake our hands saying Salom Salom [they can't pronounce the Sh in Shalom so well; which means they also pray to Hasem not Hashem].

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'So, how is Ariel Sharon?'

IMPHAL, Manipur - This city's entrance looks like a shanty town, and the rest of the city is not much better. There are heaps of garbage on most street corners which can't be burned fast enough before they're refilled. We are the only tourists here, and the locals make us aware of that; I don't think many of them have seen people like us around here before. There are toilets outside, horses and dogs eating from trash, people picking through the garbage, and a thick, stifling, smelly air in this, the state's capital. The Bnei Menashe here tell us that they are fed up with life here and want to immigrate to Israel as soon as possible. I don't blame them. The Indian government clearly does not view this place as a priority region for development.

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Stories from the bus

From Nagaland we head south into the state of Manipur, bordered on the east by Burma. We enter Manipur at the Mao border crossing. It takes about 3 hours to drive 25km on these roads, which are incredibly bumpy and windy. We're heading towards Imphal, the capital of Manipur state. Manipur is crossed by a large mountain range and we're heading down it towards the lowlands. We drive past forests and rice terraces [our guide says that if we are not used to eating a lot of rice, we'll get some stomach problems, but that some chocolate helps]. Manipur was described by India's first prime minister as the Jewel in India's crown because of its beauty. It is filled with mountains, forests and rivers. Just in case I haven't mentioned it before, there are 21 people on this expedition - eight men with their wives, three men who left their wives at home, a single woman and me.

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Meeting the lost tribe of Menashe

The Ten Lost Tribes Challenge is an initiative developed jointly by Shai Bar Ilan Geographical Tours and Eretz Ahavati, each a leader in different aspects of geographical tourism. The two companies have joined together to bring travelers from all over the world with a new type of in-depth tourism.

The expedition departed Sunday for the Indian subcontinent with the aim of meeting with the dispersed descendants of Menashe and Ephraim, the sons of Joseph. The 12-day journey will travel to the border area between Burma, India and Bangladesh in northeast India, to  the states of Nagaland, Manipur and Mizoram, and then continue to the northern plains of  the state of Uttar Pradesh. During the first part of the expedition we will meet with  members of the Shinlung ethnic minority, who live in the mountainous regions of Nagaland, Manipur and Mizoram, and who claim descent from the tribes of Menashe and Ephraim. Within breathtaking, exotic and remote landscapes there live many communities of the Kuki, Mizo and Naga tribes. All the groups are distinct from one another.